Hair is composed primarily of proteins (88%). These proteins are of a hard fibrous type known as keratin. Keratin protein is comprised of what we call "polypeptide chains.” The word, polypeptide, comes from the Greek word "poly" meaning many and "peptos" meaning digested or broken down. In essence, if we break down protein, we have individual amino acids. Many (poly) amino acids joined together form a "polypeptide chain". Two amino acids are joined together by a "peptide bond", and the correct number of amino acids placed in their correct order will form a specific protein; i.e. keratin, insulin, collagen and so on. The "alpha helix" is the descriptive term given to the polypeptide chain that forms the keratin protein found in human hair. Its structure is a coiled coil. The amino acids link together to form the coil and there are approximately 3.6 amino acids per turn of the helix (coil). Each amino acid is connected together by a "peptide bond". The peptide bond is located between the carbon atom of one amino acid extending to bond with the nitrogen atom of the next amino acid.
The A Helix Coil
In the organization of a single hair, three "alpha helices" are twisted together to form a "protofibril". This is actually the first fibril structure of the hair. Nine protofibrils are then bundled in a circle around two or more to form an eleven-stranded cable known as the "microfibril". These microfibrils are embedded in an amphorous unorganized protein matrix of high sulfur content, and hundreds of such microfibrils are cemented into an irregular fibrous bundle called a "macrofibril". These macrofibrils are grouped together to form the cortex (or the main body) layers of the hair fiber. Packed dead cells surround these structures and are known as the cuticular layers of the hair. In the center of these structures lies the medullary canal, which is actually apart of the excretory system and houses any foreign debris, heavy metals, synthetics and medications that are thrown off by the body and eventually released through the canal.
Bonding in Keratin Protein
When the hair is in its normal unstretched state. It is referred to as A of alpha keratin. The original configuration of the hair is held in place by the bonding found in the cortex layers of the hair. As we stated earlier, keratin protein begins with an alpha helix building into protofibrils, microfibrils, macrofibrils, then cortex layers. The bonds in the hair are located within each and every alpha helix.
The Hydrogen Bond
The first bond we will discuss is the hydrogen bond. This bond is located between the coils of the alpha helix and is responsible for the ability of the hair to be stretched elasticity) and return back to its original shape. The hydrogen bonds allow us to change the shape of the hair temporarily with the aid of water. These bonds are electrolytically controlled and are the most readily broken down and the most readily reformed. These bonds are responsible for approximately 35% of the strength of the hair and 50% of the hair's elasticity (some would argue up to 99.9% of the hair’s elasticity).
The Salt Bond
The salt bond is also an ionic (electrolytically controlled) bond formed by the electron transfer from the side chain of a basic amino group (an amino acid with an 00C- group) to the side chain of an acidic amino acid, i.e. NH3+. (This is two positive and negative charges attracting one another.) This occurs in a position paralleled to the axis line of the rotation of the helix of the hair. The salt bond is responsible for approximately 35% of the strength of the hair and 50% of the hair's elasticity.
The Cystine Bond
The cystine bond also known as the disulfide bond, sulfur bond, or just S bond is formed by cross-links between cystine residues (amino acids) of the main polypeptide chains. This bond is perpendicular to the axis of the hair and between the polypeptide chains. Because of its position in the hair, it is responsible for the hair's toughness or abrasion resistance. (It actually holds the hair fibers together.) These cross-links are frequent in the hair fiber, with maximum of frequency of one cystine bond every four turns of the alpha helix. This is what enables us to permanent wave the hair.
The Sugar Bond
The sugar bond is formed between the side chain of an amino acid having an OH group and an acidic amino group. This bond is also formed perpendicular to the axis of the hair. Because of its position, it gives the hair toughness but little strength (5%). Some moisture is contributed to the hair as a by-product of this bonding.
Preventing Damage
Damage to the hair is usually caused by heat (irons, blow drying, curlers, heat lamps, etc.), U.V. rays (Sun, lights, tanning beds), mechanical devices (combs, brushes, curling irons, etc.), chemicals (color, perms, relaxers, pool chemicals, the air, etc), or poor diet (specifically -lack of proteins and essential fatty acids).
Here are some ways to prevent or "help" prevent damage to your hair:
1) Use a thermal protector when using heat. See "thermal protectors" under conditioners
2) Do not blow dry the hair completely dry. Leave a little moisture in.
3) Use a conditioner with U.V. protectors built in.
4) Use a low or no ammonia hair color.
5) Air oxidize perms instead of using the neutralizer.
6) Never brush wet or damp hair. Use a wide toothed comb. See "tools"
7) On dry hair use a boars hair brush and start at the ends and work up.
8) Clarify your hair after you swim.
9) Blow dry on the "cool" setting.
10) Eat protein rich foods (chicken, fish, nuts) - Eat foods rich in essential fatty acids (not from animal sources [they contain cholesterol]-only from botanical sources) -
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Quick Fixes
These are only temporary fixes. They do not provide real solutions to damaged hair. They provide a way to get the hair look good fast. Again, I hesitate to even write this column because I do not want to give you the impression these ideas should be used on a regular basis. True "fixes" are above and below this column.
1) "Scrunch" or mist a glosser into dry hair. Many companies claim glossers "repair the hair", they don't. They do coat the hair with a layer of silicone oil (dimethicone, cyclomethicone) see glossers under conditioners
2) Use a flexible styling gel. Apply to damp hair and blow dry or air dry.
3) Take 1-3 drops of mineral oil in your hand. Rub your hands together and "scrunch into dry hair.
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Real Solutions for Damaged Hair
The following is written on the understanding you have already damaged your hair and need help to repair the damage.
Here are some real solutions that may take a little time. Please note also that damaged hair IS NOT necessarily dry hair. Dry hair (see) is a completely different topic. The tips below will only strengthen the hair.
1) Use Nexxus Emergencee once a day for a week, then drop off to once a week. Follow each Emergencee treatment with a good moisturizer.
2) Go to a salon that offers the L'anza Ultimate Treatment.
3) Start taking a good hair supplement (this will take time, as hair grows on average 1/2" per month)
4) Mix a "cocktail" of 1oz. Nexxus Humectress, 1oz. Nexxus Epitome, 1oz. Nexxus KerapHix, 1 teaspoon vegatable oil. Shake well, apply (the size of a quarter ) to clean towel dried hair, leave on for 10 minutes, rinse.
5) Another good "cocktail" is 1oz. Paul Mitchell Super Charged Conditioner, 1oz. Paul Mitchell Hair Repair, 1oz. L'anza Reconstructor. Mix well, apply the size of quarter to clean damp hair, leave on 10 minutes, rinse.
